Roche Harbor - Day 9

Overnight in Tsehum Harbor, wind swept over the deck rustling the plastic garbage bags containing our bikes and the waves knocked us about enough that sleep was hard to come by. When I finally slumbered, I dreamt of leaky boats and sponging up the bilge.

We awoke to free showers (hooray!) and more time to look around the docks for San Juans like Rock Lobster. We finally left the dock at about 11 and arrived after 10 nautical miles in two hours of wind mostly in the 13-17 knot range with fairly large waves in Haro Strait. When we finally arrived at Roche Harbor, we circled the Customs Dock for an hour and lost our spot in line when we moored at a place near to, but not in, the official customs zone.

I have always resisted Roche in the past, due in part to a brief stopover a couple of years ago for matches and a lighter when our lighter failed to light the stove for our very early morning tea after leaving Port Townsend at 4 a.m. Everything seemed over-priced and resort-y. And it certainly is that. But it is also an interesting slice of U.S. history with the lime kilns (producing the most lime west of the Mississippi). Signs explain the history of the church, the gardens and the McMillin family, the patriarch of which built a mausoleum inspired by Christianity, the Masons and his fraternity.

We visited the Sculpture Park, getting turned around on the numerous paths, including a quick blackberry-eating detour on my part (I missed the season in Seattle and Canada's were too green, but Roche Harbor's were "just right"). I was proud of myself for recognizing Georgia Gerber's work from a distance. Afterwards, we made a side trip to the mausoleum. It was still and peaceful. Next time I'll spend a little more time there, but we had to leave in order to give ourselves time to get to the dockside seafood shack.

Our grilled spot prawns marinated in olive oil, lemon juice, ginger, garlic, cilantro, and red pepper flakes served with grilled flatbread, Cuban black beans and Canadian ginger beer were delectable, as well as far more affordable than the resort restaurant. For some reason, no matter how many times we eat grilled shrimp or prawns on the boat, we never tire of it.

Post-dinner, we wandered around looking at swanky boats until it was time for the colors at sunset. A group of four young adults lowered the Roche Harbor flag, followed by Washington State, Canada (tune: Oh Canada), Great Britain (God Save the Queen), a break for a salute (one cannon shot) and then Taps as the American flag came down. I almost felt like a Girl Scout again, remembering folding up the flag during day camp.